The Vibe Check
If you thought Alessandro Michele was done shaking things up, think again. The Italian designer—who basically invented modern maximalism during his seven-year run at Gucci—just dropped his fifth collection for Valentino at Paris Fashion Week, and it’s giving major dancefloor energy.
Forget the 'quiet luxury' era; Michele is leaning into what he calls "the idea of glamour in the wrong way." The show, hosted at the Sainte-Geneviève library, featured a mix of sheer, gauzy fabrics, glimmering beads, and feathered skirts. For the guys, it was all about that messy-chic aesthetic: creased trousers, boxers peeking out above waistbands, and intentionally mis-buttoned blazers.
The 'Villain Teen' Moment
One of the standout accessories? Brightly colored baseball caps that read "Villain Teen." Michele explained that it’s a cheeky play on the name "Valentino-Teen-O." It’s his way of saying you can be a little outside the rules. As he put it, “Where everything is perfect, it’s an elegant way to make something wrong.”
Why it matters
It hasn't been the easiest transition for the brand, which saw revenue drop 15% to €1.12bn in 2025. With luxury markets acting a bit mid lately, Michele is betting that "personality dressing" is the comeback move the industry needs. Whether it’s his signature red-carpet gowns with massive bows or his experimental styling, he’s clearly trying to make Valentino the main character of the fashion world again. With Kering holding options to potentially take full ownership of the brand by the end of the decade, the pressure is on for these looks to really pop.
